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Twingo Dashboard Removal & Blower Resistor Fix Print
Written by Evren Yurtesen   
Tuesday, 09 February 2010

Here are some short instructions on Twingo I dashboard removal and heater / blower motor resistor fix. This is from an old Twingo which only has 2 blower fan speed settings.

Luckily the older twingo models are easy to put apart. I will try to outline the steps one must take to be able to remove the dashboard and reach to heater blower motor and the resistor. A lot of other parts are also accessible from under the dashboard.

 

Dash Top Left
Dash Top Middle
 Dash Top Right

 First screws to remove are the screws around the windshield / windscreen blower holes. Once the screws are removed, the panel can be pulled out. It might get stuck between the mirror adjustment handles but it is possible to navigate it through by setting the positions of the handles and bending the panel a little bit.

 

The next step is to remove the middle instrument panel frame. In the picture the frame is removed. There are 2 screws on the top and 4 screws under the ash tray which are holding the frame in place. (marked by red arrows)

After the removal of the frame, one can remove the screws which are holding the ventilation control panel. (marked by yellow arrows)

You also should remove the 2 screws which are connecting the dashboard to the ventilation duct (marked by orange arrows.)

 

Instrument PAnel

Do not forget to remove the radio slot and the cables behind the slot.

 

Under Left Speaker Middle Under Instrument Panel
Under Right Speaker

Next set of screws are located und the right and left speakers and und the instrument panel in the middle just in front of the gear. 

You also must remember to put your hand under the speakers and remove the connectors of the speaker cables before continuing. (Below is the photo of them)

 Speaker Connector

 

The removal of the screws for the removal of parts connected to the steering column is shown on the photo. There are 3 screws holding the lower part and one small screw holding the upper part from under and 2 screws under the steering wheel.

Although these parts are not directly part of the dashboard, the upper steering column part is connected to the dashboard using clips and therefore it is not possible to remove the dashboard without removing that part first.

Also the screws under the steering wheel is inaccessible unless the steering wheel is removed. Even if you could somehow access them without removing the steering wheel (I had the brilliant idea of drilling holes under the steering wheel to directly access them), the dashboard does not get through the steering wheel and it is not possible to take it out that way.

Most importantly, put a mark with pen after removing the steering wheel screw, before pulling it out. Perhaps a line which crosses between the screw hole and the steering wheel itself to determine the position it was at which will help you put it back easier.

 Steering Column

 

Connection Under Steering Wire Loom Above Fuses
Removal of Top Part

 While removing the lower panel where the fuses are, yoiu should make sure to disconnect the front light height setting knob (it gets off easily by pushing the holder).

The wire loom above the fuses must be removed. It is released by removing the metal tab over it by first releasing it from the left side and rolling it up (marked by green arrows).

Also the 2 screws which were hidden under the lower cover must be removed and the top panel should be pulled out before continuing.

 

Lastly, the screws on the top which were hidden under the top panel should be removed before continuing. There are 5 screws (3 are shown in the photo on the right).

One might consider removing the horn knob by pulling it out to make it easier to navigate the dashboard out.

Dash Top Screws Under the Topmost Panel

When all of the above is completed (and if I didnt forget mentioning something) one can remove the dashboard by first lifting it a little bit upwards to release the top part then pulling it. It is necessary to rotate it a little bit to navigate around the wiper control stick. You should also carefully observe in which position you were holding the dash while removing so you can put it back. I had slightly difficult time since it didnt fit back whatever I did at first time when assembling it back :)

Dash Removed!

Above is the photo taken after the dash was removed. Note that the fan connector was removed before taking the photo. 

Fan Resistor Oxiized Fan Resistor Cleaned and Greased

 Fan Resistor Gasket Siliconed

I am planning to spray some Electrolube DCC - SCC3 Conformal Coating   over the elements to protect them from further degredation altogether (operational temperature between -70 to 200 degrees celsius!). Sounds like a good idea considering many of the Renault models appear to be having resistor connection problems.

The upper left image shows the oxidized resistor connector. It was a little bit cleaned before taking the photo. Now I know why it was smelling like burned plastic when the fan was at top speed!

The photo on the upper right shows the cleaned tab and greased with Electrolube Contact Treatment SGB grease (can be found at ELFA).

I have put some gasket silicon to the legs to make sure that moisture can not travel to the other side (I know, looks ugly)

One must make sure that everything is working before putting the dashboard back, especially check the fan cabling. I forgot to connect the 2 pin fan wire back to the resistor and had to put my hand through the hole for ventilation button panel to conncect it without removing the dashboard again.

One other thing to consider is using hot glue around the connector which connects to the resistor pack. I believe the wires are heavy enough to move the connector (it doesnt couple tightly with the resistor) and cause sparks and oxidation while driving over bumps etc. and that is one of the reasons why this sort of problem occured in this car at first place. After all, hot glue can be removed easily by cutting with a sharp knife easily so no harm done.

Obviously, you should do the operations backwards for putting everything back into place :)

Last Updated ( Wednesday, 10 February 2010 )
 
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